Day 32 - Thurs., May 29 from Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero - 18.7 miles (13 walked and 5 by taxi)
Started out foggy, then misty and in about 45 min. we had rain for the rest of the day and night. So, not a big picture taking day. Our rain ponchos did their job and it was another cool day so we were comfortable wearing them.
I walked a couple of hours talking with a Medieval History professor from Fordham. He has a summer course for grad students and they spend two weeks on the Camino walking from Leon to Santiago. He has been doing this for 10 years. Conversation makes the rainy miles pass by.
Nick walked with Richard's colleague, David. In fact, Nick loaned David his trekking umbrella because David had lost his pack cover and was using his rain jacket to protect his pack. So we walked with David until we arrived at what we thought was our destination for the day. David was going one town farther. David's father had been in the Army and it seemed they enjoyed talking together. Took this pic when we said our goodbyes.
We had made a reservation at a beautiful new posada rural (although sight unseen until this moment), El Paraiso del Bierzo but we were told they had no reservation for us and they were completely booked. You can imagine our disappointment. Today, Friday, I received an email from booking.com that the credit card had been charged 20 Euros because we did not cancel and were no shows. We will dispute the charge.
After 13 miles we were ready to get out of the rain. What to do? It was a little after noon and it probably would have taken us another couple of hours to walk those 4 miles because it was a steep climb on a muddy path. I asked the owner if he could call to check for availability 5 miles further up the mountain and if we could get a taxi ride there. He called and booked a room and an elderly man arrived about 15 minutes later in his personal car to drive us. As we passed fellow pilgrims who had taken the road to avoid the muddy, slippery path and were still walking in the rain, I wanted to shrink into the seat.
Our driver wanted to ensure we had a reservation before he drove off and left us in this tiny hamlet on top of a mountain.
Not sure what this man was carrying.
It was cold and raining hard. Visibility was nil so we could not see the spectacular views. He walked in with us to speak to the person in charge and, yes, there was a room for us. What a kind man. We thanked him profusely and I kissed him first on the left cheek and then the right. This was the room and we were happy to be there.
We could see from our front windows for the rest of the afternoon vey wet and tired pilgrims hoping for a dry place for the night. We also watched many take a taxi probably because everything was filled.
As we waited to go up to the room, two women we have seen since Day 2 told me they had been there having lunch for about 45 min. and wanted a room there but were told it was full. Boy was I glad I had asked the owner of the place we were supposed to be staying at to call ahead. They had found a place but said it wasn't very nice. The albergue had its door open and all I could think about was how cold it must be in that old stone building.
The rain let up momentarily a couple of times and we ventured out to the church next door. The view from our side window.
Founded intheyear 836, Santa Maria de Real (Royal St. Mary's) is supposedly the oldest church on the entire French Road of the Camino de Santiago.
The silver box is beautiful and contains a Eucharistic miracle from the 12th century. A parishioner braved a fierce storm to come to mass and receive communion. The priest scoffed at the man for coming out in such a storm. The host turned into flesh and stained the linen cloth. Both are contained in the silver box.
St. Francis of Assisi
Other pics before more rain.
From Celtic times1,500 years ago up to the 1960's, this was a home for both people and their animals. It is called a pallozas.
I had a speciality go this region (Galicia), Caldo gallega -- a white bean soup with green beans, potatoes, cabbage or chard. I enjoyed it on a cold evening.
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