Day 29, Monday, May 26 from Rabanal del Camino to Acebo -11.3 miles from 7:30 am to noon
Last night for dinner Stoney had two first plates because he did not like any of the second plates. So he dined on the house salad which was dressed with salad dressing and not oil and vinegar.
He had cork screw macaroni in a tomato sauce with a little beef for his second course and ice cream for desert. I had spaghetti carbonara and pork loin with French fries. My dessert was chocolate mousse. It was very good.
I attended a Vespers service in a very simple church which was beautiful. It was probably in Cursillo language my closest moment to God. I remained in the church afterwards for prayer.
This morning it was cool but not as cold as it has been. There was no wind which was nice. We had our morning rocket fuel and were out the door after another good night of sleep. We could hear the couple on the other side of the wall talk and cough but our ear plugs did not fail us. Woke up about 5 am and realized I could sleep at least another hour. Nice.
We planned a short mileage day because of the climb to 4,940 ft. In hindsight it was the descent that was the killer. The ascent was gradual over a few miles and the scenery even though no sunshine was beautiful. Once again we could see snow covered mountains to our left. Because it was cool we did not sweat as we made the climb. I thought about what a difference it would make if the weather was warm and sunny.
We stopped for a short break (coffee and Coke) in Foncebadon about 3.5 miles into the day. I think the town is less than one block long and almost abandoned except for 4 albergues. One had music playing as we walked by. There was also a small store. It was very windy there.
I have not used my trekking poles for a long time but in anticipation of the climb I had them out today. Did not really need them on the ascent but on the several mile rocky and step descent they were very much appreciated.
I made a video as we approached the Cruz de Ferro which I will post here when we get home. I have seen so many pictures of it but it seemed smaller than what I had expected. I was surprised that the road goes right by it. I guess I was thinking more like Mt. Katahdin and that it is not. Still it was a very special time.
As we approached we met a man from Hattiesburg, MS. I asked if he would take our picture and he graciously consented. Meet Mark.
We walked up to the foot of the cross together, posed for the picture and joined hands for a brief prayer.
Stoney dropped his stonedeal rock and walked back down the rock pile. I knelt down to pray and put down my stonedeal rock, 2 blue glass pieces (for our sons), a cat's eye marble (for all the people I pray for everyday) and a solid white marble (for a special intention) on the pile. I took this pic.
Before I stood up I placed them in an opening at the base of the cross where they could not be seen or removed.
As we were leaving the sun tried to peek out and I took some pictures.
We talked about the ease of the climb to the top. I hoped the descent would be gradual too. For a time the walk along the ridge line reminded me of the Appalachian Trail. I lingered and Stoney walked quickly on ahead. It was so quiet and the trail was narrow with beautiful views. I took lots of pics. I did not want it to end. I thought of Sr. Joyce Rupp and her book walk In A Relaxed Manner and so I walked in a relaxed manner.
I dropped one of my gloves while taking a pic and decided I should walk back for it. I had not walked far when a man coming down the trail held it up. He was Sam from Chicago walking with his wife, Joanne.
Sam was curious about my shoes. He had experienced terrible blisters and so we talked a bit before I moved on to catch up with Stoney. He was frowning as I approached because he had been worrying about me and wondering if I had fallen. He said he had been waiting 30 min. and was about to start walking back for me ...
The descent was like walking in a gulley with loose rocks and it went on and on. I am glad we planned a shorter day. It was slow going and took a lot of concentration. Acebo was the first village we came to and it appeared in a very small valley. It was a wonderful sight and I was delighted we did not have to walk on another 2.5 miles to the next possibility or 4 more to Molinaseca.
Our stopping point La Posada del Peregrino is only 5 yrs. old and beautiful. We checked in and immediately went down to the restaurant for a cheese omelet on French bread. Delicious.
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