Day 25, Thurs., May 22 fro Leon to Hospital de Orbigo - 20.5 miles (I think)
We slept well in spite of the loud music from the party at the school inside the old wall. We have good ear plugs. Bedtime was early as usual around 8:30 pm. I woke up about 5:30 am and was happy that I could sleep another 45 minutes.
Following Brierley's guidebook suggestion we took a bus about 4 miles to La Virgen Del Camino where we were supposed to take the recommended route to Villar de Mazarife which would have been a 10.5 mile day. We had coffee there and the little quiches we bought the day before. It was rainy, windy and about 38 degrees when we started following the yellow arrows and markers about 8 am.
On the Camino their are options which can be taken. Mostly we have followed the preferred route according to Brierley. However, in the rain and wind we missed the turn and did not realize it until we arrived in San Miguel, a town we were not supposed to pass through. We stopped for coffee and deliberated. From our map we thought we might take a highway south about 8 or so miles to get back on the recommended path or we could continue on the option heading west which ran parallel. It seemed ridiculous to walk 8 miles extra when we could continue heading to Santiago on the optional route. We continued on the option. The rain had stopped but the wind had increased and it was still quite chilly.
We arrived on San Martin del Camino after walking about 13.5 miles. We stopped at Santa Ana Albergue and asked if it was possible to get a taxi to Hospital De Orbigo (about 4 miles). In about 10 minutes a young woman in a new car pulled up and drove us there. We had a reservation for tomorrow at a B&B so we got out there. However, it was COMPLETO for tonight. It was a lovely place, El Caminero, a restored 17th century town home. The young woman graciously recommended a place in town, made a call, gave us directions and we walked to Hotel Don Suero de Quinones in about 5 min.
The view from our room.
This is a town with a population of 1,100. We have a nice room with a private bath. We began our day about 7 am at the bus stop and were in our room about 2 pm. So we did 4 miles by bus, 13.5 walking and 3 miles by cab. The only thing we did not try was a bicycle.
The local supermercado where Stoney got ham and cheese and French bread for our late lunch. It is run by a Canadian woman who married a Spaniard and he wanted to move back to a Spain.
This mistake sets us up for more time in Astorga which I had wanted but had not planned because we'd just taken 2 heavenly days in Leon. There is a saying 'the Camino provides.'
We walked around town and followed the Camino route to the edge of town to look at the two choices tomorrow. Stoney wants to continue on the Option which follows the highway to Astorga. The way mark is very clear. We could not have missed it.
But the scene in the distance was surprising - snow on mountains! Wondering if that's the Cruz de Ferro in the distance (4,940 ft. - the highest point on the Camino). On Sunday, May 25th we'll find out.
Once again we have storks in town. There are four nests and I think to have babies. One parent bird flew out and came back. They are enormous.
This man was fly fishing. Reminded me of how my dad loved to fish with a fly rod.
Enjoyed a delicious pilgrim meal at a restaurant named Los Angeles -- spaghetti carbonara, trout with French fries and local custard for me. Stoney had mixed salad, beef stew with French fries and ice cream.
It is 9 pm and it is still very much daylight here. We are in bed. There are shades on the outside of the windows that pull down to darken the room so it is not a problem to sleep.
I slept on top of my bed bug sheet last night. Now I have a ras on both legs which really burns. I haveCortisone cream to use which should help. Guess I am allergic to permethrin. I have sprayed my clothes with it too tomorrow I will have my clothes laundered. Here's hoping I a not transporting the bed bugs with me. Oh the joys of the Camino.
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