Day 34 - Sat., May 31 from Triacastella to Sarria - 11.6 miles

Started this day like usual with coffee but Casa David included fresh squeezed orange juice, toast and yogurt. As we walked out of town, I asked a couple if they were on Trail Journals. I had been reading their journal and we have been in the same town on the same day but I had not met them. So I talked briefly with Mike and Nancy Friends from Arizona. 

We had quite a climb today right from the get go. Some mornings begin with a lot of people on the trail and so it was this day until the climb helped space us out a little. 

It was a sunny and clear morning and the views were wonderful. I relished them because they will be the last from so high up. Our high point today was Alto Riocabo at 2,970 ft. 

On the way we walked through some rough terrain that reminded me of the Appalachian Trail. 

A rest stop where most removed their jackets because the climb had us sweating. 

We could see our destination long before we arrived. There is a stork in this picture - the white spot on the right. We saw two today on the ground eating and one flying near the nest. They still intrigue me. 

This is our room tonight. The walls are so thin I can hear every word of the American woman next door. She is currently talking on her cell phone describing her day. I am putting in my ear plugs. 

We have 83.2 miles to Santiago and will no doubt come home earlier than planned. We are looking forward to our return. Stoney is done with 'mystery meals.' We are both relishing not having to move from bed to bed every day and wondering who will be on the other side of the wall. 

Attended Mass at Santa Marina this evening. 

It is 9 pm. Stoney is fast asleep.  I can still hear the woman next door even with my ear plugs in. She is loud and has been on the phone over 30 minutes. We are sharing a bathroom so I expect after the phone call, she will make some more noise. Oh well...one more reason to appreciate home. 

Day 33 - Friday, May 30 from O'Cebreiro to Triacastela - 13.6 miles

After coffee and toast we started for the trail and saw a young couple heading to the road because after all the rain, they did not want to deal with the mud. Stoney agreed and we hit the road. The mileage would be no different and the walking would be easier. At this stage, I just want to finish so no argument from me. The red stake to the left is a road edge marker when snow is very deep. We just had fog. 

It cleared after walking about 45 minutes and then off and on fog would come in for awhile and so the miles went by. 

When we arrived at Alto de San Roque to see the medieval pilgrim looking out over Galicia and it's deep valleys it was beautiful and then

We walked on. 

We had a short but steep climb up to the highest spot on the Camino in Galicia at 4,380 feet. It was made more pleasurable because we walked and talked with the young couple we followed out of town early in the morning. They were from the Netherlands. 

We stopped for a short break (less than 15 min.) and I had a Coke and Stoney had a coffee. At Biduedo we left the road and began to descend more steeply. Going down gets really tiring for me because I have to concentrate on my foot placement to avoid slipping and falling. Sounds like I am complaining but actually I am grateful for knees that have held up. 

We walked through some aromatic cow country today. There was a woman leading about 6 of these and we were up close and personal. It was funny to watch them turn their head toward a passing pilgrim. When she called their name, they would straighten up and keep following. I think her husband was heading up the rear. 

These were hanging above the muddy cow path. Can you imagine the work to get clothes clean here?

Just a little before Triacastela we stopped in awe to view the 700 or 800 year old tree. 

I am always tired after walking for 5 hours so it was great to see our abode for the night, Casa David. 

Above my bed was this picture.

Day 32 - Thurs., May 29 from Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero -18.7 miles (13 walked and 5 by taxi)

Day 32 - Thurs., May 29 from Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebriero - 18.7 miles (13 walked and 5 by taxi)

Started out foggy, then misty and in about 45 min. we had rain for the rest of the day and night.  So, not a big picture taking day. Our rain ponchos did their job and it was another cool day so we were comfortable wearing them. 

I walked a couple of hours talking with a Medieval History professor from Fordham. He has a summer course for grad students and they spend two weeks on the Camino walking from Leon to Santiago. He has been doing this for 10 years. Conversation makes the rainy miles pass by. 

Nick walked with Richard's colleague, David. In fact, Nick loaned David his trekking umbrella because David had lost his pack cover and was using his rain jacket to protect his pack. So we walked with David until we arrived at what we thought was our destination for the day. David was going one town farther. David's father had been in the Army and it seemed they enjoyed talking together. Took this pic when we said our goodbyes. 

We had made a reservation at a beautiful new posada rural (although sight unseen until this moment), El Paraiso del Bierzo but we were told they had no reservation for us and they were completely booked. You can imagine our disappointment. Today, Friday, I received an email from booking.com that the credit card had been charged 20 Euros because we did not cancel and were no shows. We will dispute the charge. 

After 13 miles we were ready to get out of the rain. What to do? It was a little after noon and it probably would have taken us another couple of hours to walk those 4 miles because it was a steep climb on a muddy path.  I asked the owner if he could call to check for availability 5 miles further up the mountain and if we could get a taxi ride there. He called and booked a room and an elderly man arrived about 15 minutes later in his personal car to drive us.  As we passed fellow pilgrims who had taken the road to avoid the muddy, slippery path and were still walking in the rain, I wanted to shrink into the seat. 

Our driver wanted to ensure we had a reservation before he drove off and left us in this tiny hamlet on top of a mountain. 

Not sure what this man was carrying. 

It was cold and raining hard. Visibility was nil so we could not see the spectacular views.  He walked in with us to speak to the person in charge and, yes, there was a room for us. What a kind man. We thanked him profusely and I kissed him first on the left cheek and then the right. This was the room and we were happy to be there.

We could see from our front windows for the rest of the afternoon vey wet and tired pilgrims hoping for a dry place for the night. We also watched many take a taxi probably because everything was filled. 

As we waited to go up to the room, two women we have seen since Day 2 told me they had been there having lunch for about 45 min. and wanted a room there but were told it was full. Boy was I glad I had asked the owner of the place we were supposed to be staying at to call ahead. They had found a place but said it wasn't very nice. The albergue had its door open and all I could think about was how cold it must be in that old stone building. 

The rain let up momentarily a couple of times and we ventured out to the church next door. The view from our side window. 

Founded intheyear 836, Santa Maria de Real (Royal St. Mary's) is supposedly the oldest church on the entire French Road of the Camino de Santiago. 

The silver box is beautiful and contains a Eucharistic miracle from the 12th century. A parishioner braved a fierce storm to come to mass and receive communion. The priest scoffed at the man for coming out in such a storm. The host turned into flesh and stained the linen cloth. Both are contained in the silver box. 

St. Francis of Assisi

It was freezing cold in the stone church.

Other pics before more rain. 

Just a quickly passing view of what the rain and clouds had denied us.

From Celtic times1,500 years ago up to the 1960's, this was a home for both people and their animals. It is called a pallozas. 

I had a speciality go this region (Galicia), Caldo gallega -- a white bean soup with green beans, potatoes, cabbage or chard. I enjoyed it on a cold evening.